Royal Fashion v. Royal Style

"The King is a most interesting study from the sartorial point of view. An exact balance is held by His Majesty between fashion and style, style and personal lik-ing." Thus pontificated, last week, the current London issue of Tailor and Cutter.

Lofty yet meticulous, this periodical continued:

Jackets: "If one takes note of the jackets which the King wears, and they are well worth attention, the subjection of fashion to style may be seen.

"Above all they have natural lines with no forced traits. The extra width of shoulder, and the draping at the back of the arm are ignored. The hip is fitted but not sheathed and the fronts gracefully cut away. . . .

Coats: "The trained eye is caught at once by the rare lapels of the royal coats. Often these sections are hard and flat; but in the King's coats they turn over gently like a leaf or the petals of a flower. . .

Individualism:"There are various kinds and degrees of individuality in dress. The term may be applied where a man selects a style of costume which has long since gone out of fashion. It may be used where another cultivates the grotesque in garb.

"The King's is (and this is no mere courtierlike utterance) the most delightful individualism of all. His garments are carefully cut to suit his bodily form, yet with due regard for the mode. But his personality peeps forth in little touches. which doubtless please him and certainly make him distinct.

"His jackets carry a naval trimness in design. His trousers are never creased down the front--a fashion started in the Army, but are pressed at the side and follow the sailor style of an easy rolling effect. . . ."

Collars': "Since his young days the King has remained faithful to the tie which slips through a gold ring. He has adopted the double collar; one cut on orthodox lines, neither opening so widely as that of the Prince of Wales nor with such deep points as that of the Duke of York."

"Pet fancies" of the King-Emperor include, according to Tailor and Cutter: 1) "black and tan boots"; 2) "turn-back cuffs to overcoats"; 3) "double-breasted waistcoats." . . . "Yet there is no mark of overdressing or nibbling at exotic or freakish modes."